I've been diving deep into historical costuming lately, and I honestly can't get over how charming the pet en l'air is. If you aren't familiar with 18th-century French fashion terms, the name might make you giggle—it literally translates to "fart in the air"—but don't let the cheeky name fool you. This garment is one of the most practical and stylish pieces of the Rococo era, and it's making a huge comeback in the "history bounding" community today.
While the towering wigs and massive hoop skirts of the 1700s get all the attention in movies, the pet en l'air was the real MVP for everyday life. It's essentially a short version of the robe à la française, ending somewhere around the hips or mid-thigh. It has those iconic "Watteau pleats" at the back that flow down from the shoulders, giving it a breezy, effortless silhouette that's a lot less restrictive than a full court gown.
The Story Behind That Hilarious Name
You really have to wonder what the French tailors were thinking when they named it. Calling a jacket a "fart in the air" sounds like a joke, but it actually refers to the garment's length and lightness. Because it was short and flared out at the bottom, it was seen as something fleeting, airy, and maybe a little bit scandalous compared to more formal attire.
Back in the mid-1700s, fashion was moving away from the stiff, heavy styles of Louis XIV's reign toward something a bit more playful. The pet en l'air fit that vibe perfectly. It was considered "undress" or informal wear, something a lady might wear at home, for a casual stroll in a garden, or while grabbing tea with friends. It wasn't what you'd wear to meet the King at Versailles, but it was definitely what you'd wear if you wanted to look put-together without feeling like you were encased in a suit of armor.
Why the Silhouette Works So Well
The magic of the pet en l'air lies in its construction. If you look at it from the front, it usually looks like a standard bodice. It fits closely to the torso and is often held together by a stomacher—that V-shaped decorative panel—or it might even meet in the middle with hooks or buttons.
But then you turn around, and bam—the pleats. Those double box pleats hanging from the neckline are what give the jacket its drama. They catch the air as you walk, which is probably where that "airy" name comes from. Because the jacket stops at the hips, it shows off the petticoat (the skirt) underneath. This allowed women to play with color and pattern in a way that a full-length gown didn't always permit. You could have a floral jacket and a striped petticoat, or a solid silk jacket over a heavily quilted skirt for warmth.
The Role of the Stomacher
Since many versions of the pet en l'air didn't close in the front, the stomacher was the star of the show. This was a triangular piece of fabric that was pinned to the stays (the 18th-century version of a corset) underneath the jacket.
It was the ultimate customizable accessory. If you were feeling fancy, you'd pin on a stomacher covered in embroidery, lace, or ribbons. If you were just hanging out at home, you'd use a plain one. It made the pet en l'air incredibly versatile. You could change the whole look of your outfit just by swapping out that one little piece of fabric.
What Fabrics Were Actually Used?
When we think of the 18th century, we often think of heavy brocades and stiff satins. While those were definitely used for formal versions of the pet en l'air, this garment was often made of much lighter materials.
- Printed Cottons: As the 1700s progressed, printed cottons (like toile de Jouy or Indian chintz) became incredibly popular. A cotton pet en l'air was the height of chic comfort.
- Silk Taffeta: For a slightly dressier look, silk taffeta offered that wonderful "scritch-scratch" sound and held the shape of the pleats beautifully without being too heavy.
- Linen: For working-class women or just for staying cool in the summer, linen was the go-to. It's breathable and easy to wash, making it the perfect choice for a casual jacket.
It's also worth noting that these jackets weren't always lined. If you wanted that "airy" feel, a lightweight unlined silk would move beautifully in the wind.
Wearing One Today: History Bounding and Cosplay
If you're into historical sewing or just love the aesthetic, the pet en l'air is one of the best projects to start with. Unlike a full gown, it doesn't require twenty yards of fabric. You can usually squeeze one out of three or four yards, which makes it way more budget-friendly.
In the world of "history bounding"—where people incorporate historical styles into their modern wardrobe—the pet en l'air is surprisingly wearable. If you make it a bit shorter and pair it with a modern skirt or even high-waisted trousers, it looks like a high-fashion designer piece. It has that oversized, voluminous look that's actually pretty trendy right now.
Drafting Your Own
For the DIY crowd, drafting a pet en l'air is a fun challenge. You basically start with a standard 18th-century bodice pattern and then add the extra width for the pleats at the back. The trick is getting the "swing" right. You want it to flare out just enough to look intentional but not so much that you look like you're wearing a tent.
Most people today use a "false" pleat system where the pleats are sewn down at the top to keep them tidy, but the traditional way is to have them flow freely from the neckband. It's all about how much drama you want to bring to the table.
The Social Context of Informal Wear
It's easy to look at old paintings and think everyone was dressed to the nines all the time. But the pet en l'air reminds us that people in the 1700s valued comfort too. There was a whole hierarchy of clothing, and "undress" (informal wear) was where people really got to show their personality.
The pet en l'air was part of a movement toward negligée styles. This didn't mean lingerie in the modern sense; it just meant clothes that weren't stiff and formal. It represented a shift in social dynamics—people were spending more time in private salons, reading books, and having intellectual conversations rather than just standing around at court ceremonies. This jacket was the uniform of the Enlightenment-era woman who wanted to be comfortable while she changed the world (or at least while she gossiped over chocolate).
Why We Still Love It
There's something just plain fun about the pet en l'air. Maybe it's the silly name, or maybe it's the way the back of the jacket billows out when you walk. It captures a specific moment in fashion history where things were decorative but also starting to become a bit more functional.
It's a garment that doesn't take itself too seriously. It's short, it's swingy, and it's undeniably French. Whether you're seeing one in a museum, sewing one for a convention, or just admiring the way it looks in a Fragonard painting, the pet en l'air remains one of the most endearing pieces of the 18th century.
So, next time you're looking at historical fashion, don't just focus on the big gowns. Look for the short, pleated jacket with the funny name. It's a reminder that even 300 years ago, people knew that sometimes, you just want to wear something light and breezy—something that's basically a "fart in the air."